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I just blew up a power supply.

Started by
12 comments, last by Brain 7 years, 5 months ago

This is the one:
http://cougargaming.com/index_ss.php?id=424

It have a swich for 115/230, I didnt even though about it, just pluged int wall outlet 220, fucking switches man..

Now Im hoping it was just the power supply that blew..Already order a new one..

The thing is:

OVP (Over-voltage protection)
If the voltages increase above a certain tolerance value on the single lines, the PSU automatically switches off.

Oh really? REALLY? e_e tell me more lies..

Tsc...ruined my day

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Am I the only one who's never heard of "Cougar Gaming" power supplies? Maybe they're better known in other countries...

SlimDX | Ventspace Blog | Twitter | Diverse teams make better games. I am currently hiring capable C++ engine developers in Baltimore, MD.
I, too, have never heard of this company. But I have popped a few power supplies on 240v mains. Usually the PSU will fail dramatically, but I've never seen any excess power make it into the device itself.

Wielder of the Sacred Wands
[Work - ArenaNet] [Epoch Language] [Scribblings]

Any tips on removing a 24 pin cable from mobo? Dx

Look carefully. There are probably some latch-like mechanisms on the header and/or the end of the cable itself that prevent it from sliding off. Figure out now to non-destructively release those latching mechanisms.


Or ask google. I found a few sites with more detailed tips.

Wielder of the Sacred Wands
[Work - ArenaNet] [Epoch Language] [Scribblings]

Any tips on removing a 24 pin cable from mobo? Dx


Push it inwards to release friction on the latch, then press against the latch, then pull it while shifting your pulling force from end-to-end. It's safe to pull via the wire bundle itself as long as you're pulling ALL of the wires and not just one or two at a time.

Usually I put all four fingers around the cable bundle when pulling and have my thumb on the latch.

I removed it, I had to wiggle more, it wasnt moving, and the mobo was lose in one corner, so I couldnt use much force.

Now that I removed it, I can see a fuse inside the power supply, is there any chance it can be fixed by only replacing the fuse? The weird thing is the fuse looks welded to the board...why youd do that? Isnt the fuse just there do blew itself in sacrifice? Should have a little dor where you can just replace it, like some power strips.

It's possible only the fuse is damaged - if you can find out what rating the fuse is you could try replacing it. Usually the rating is a number written on the side of the transparent part. The rest of it might still be fine.

At worst the fuse is soldered on and you can use a soldering iron to melt the solder and put a new one in. I've seen some fuses that are attached via simple metal snaps as well - if it's one of those you should be able to just pull it out.

(edit) Found a guide about this: http://www.techrepublic.com/article/learn-to-re-fuse-a-power-supply/ Pay attention to the part about "possibly charged capacitors"! They're not kidding! Capacitors in high voltage circuits can be BAD NEWS.
Once I worked in a school.

The school bought a whole new room full of IBM PCs.

Each pc had a 230/120 switch on its psu.

The room was isolated by a breaker on the wall so that the teacher would throw the breaker at the start of the lesson to let the pcs power on.

Some oik thought it funny to switch all the switches from 230 to 120 before the lesson.

Teacher throws the breaker, well I've never heard such a loud electrical bang.

Let's just say from that point on, school policy was to permanently stick the switches in 230 mode using arildite two part resin glue... :lol:

 

school story

That one made me laugh. Placing a device with a "destroy me" switch in front of a teen (in particular a male teen) is so outright dumb... can only happen in a school! That's like placing a big red button that sings "press me, press me" all the time in front of them :lol:

Though I'm surprised... aren't virtually all power supplies on the inside switching converters (for efficiency reasons) which work exactly the same from 100 to 300V input anyway? Since at least 10 if not 15 years?

1dv09e.jpg

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