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Built "my own" computer again, but it does not boot.

Started by March 29, 2007 02:40 PM
21 comments, last by SymLinked 17 years, 7 months ago
Quote: Original post by SymLinked
Quote: Original post by hplus0603
Anyway, I don't think your PS is enough. For an 8800 GTX I would recommend something like a PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad to make sure there's enough current (it's actually certified up to dual 8800 SLI).


That is just odd because Nvidia says 450W. Oh well. Guess I will return the Strider and try to get hold of something similiar to one of those Silencer Quad's. They are not being sold in Sweden as far as I can tell.


There is a difference between voltage and current. What hplus0603 is saying is that your 8800 is drawing too much current. Even though your PSU exceeds the voltage requirements from Nvidia, it can't provide enough current. Thus, it does not function.

Quote: Original post by SymLinked

Quote: Original post by bladerunner627
Did you forget to plug in your ghost PCI-E chip. The small board that goes to your other PCI-E slot if your motherboard is SLI ready. You need this chip as a placeholder, for some reason or another..I don't really know why, but something tells me that might be your problem.


I honestly have no clue what a ghost chip is, but I will keep your suggestion in mind when I get back to the case later.


A "ghost chip" (I've never heard that specific term used, but it's irrelevant) is a "placeholder". For example, in the days of RDRAM, they were required to essentially say, "there is no RAM here" if you had empty slots.

I've not heard of them being required for single-card use in a SLI-capable motherboard, but I've never worked with SLI setups, so what do I know? If anything, it's worth a try.
[sub]-------------------------So impact forces are measured in Ford-Taurus-miles-per-hour in the U.S.? - Trapper Zoid[/sub]
My father built a new computer quite recently that showed similar symptoms to yours. He was able to fix it by switching to a different power supply. Don't skimp on the power supply; aside from various more mundane problems, I had an inexpensive (Antec) power supply almost set my house on fire a few years ago when it started shooting sparks out the back! (Luckily I was around at the time and was able to turn off the computer and move stuff before anything caught fire.)
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Quote: Original post by Don Quioxte
There is a difference between voltage and current. What hplus0603 is saying is that your 8800 is drawing too much current. Even though your PSU exceeds the voltage requirements from Nvidia, it can't provide enough current. Thus, it does not function.


Thanks for your defination of ghost-chip ;)

Hey! Current = Amps? I called my retailer and they said the Strider had enough, and efter checking the chart link I posted (above) it says 41 Amps total on 12V while the GPU requires what, 27? How can that be "not enough"? (Not obligating btw, just making sure before I pay for another PSU :()

UPDATE

I got the setup to boot by replacing the PCI-E GPU with a TNT2 PCI. It behaves strangely while booting up, but at least it runs.

Here's a video of how it looks inside when it is booting up. Notice how the power button is only pressed once during the clip, yet it "starts" twice.

Googling the behaviour hints that it is common for the P965 chipset, but it still worries me quite a bit.

I think I will try to return the 8800. Unless the specs for the PSU are false (which Toms Hardware says it is not in their test) then it can not be the PSU and the only choice left is the 8800.
Other parts besides the graphics card take current at 12V; if your hard drives, cd drives, graphics card, motherboard, and other 12V parts combined take too much current, you're in trouble.

Also, some PSU's provide two separate 12V 'rails': each rail can produce up to 20 amps, for a total of 40A. If both graphics card connectors are on the same rail, it's trying to draw 27A from a 20A rail, which causes problems, even though the other rail isn't being maxed. See if you have several PCI-E connectors that you can experiment with using different ones. (If two are connected together outside of the PSU, they're definitely on the same rail.)

Plus, with cheap power supplies, manufacturers often list the power as total amount they can take from the wall (instead of the amount they give to the computer): if the power supply uses 6A at 120V from the wall, it may be listed as a 720W supply, to make it look better. However, it may only deliver 25A at 12V, 20A at 5V, and 15A at 3.3V, for a total of 300W+100W+50W=450W actually delivered to the computer. Of that, only 300W can be used by 12V devices. So just because a PSU has a huge watt rating doesn't mean it'll give your graphics card enough current.

[edit] Looking at the chart above, your 12V is actually divided into 4 separate rails, which add up to 41A. So if you hook up the graphics card to the 13A and (16 or 18)A rails and don't use those ones for anything else, you should be good. Then you'll be left with the other two rails for your motherboard, hard drives, etc.
Quote: Original post by Don Quioxte
A "ghost chip" (I've never heard that specific term used, but it's irrelevant) is a "placeholder". For example, in the days of RDRAM, they were required to essentially say, "there is no RAM here" if you had empty slots.

I've not heard of them being required for single-card use in a SLI-capable motherboard, but I've never worked with SLI setups, so what do I know? If anything, it's worth a try.


I've got an SLI motherboard and have used both a single 7800GTX and a single 8800GTS in it without needing anything to fill the empty second slot.
Orin Tresnjak | Graphics ProgrammerBethesda Game StudiosStandard Disclaimer: My posts represent my opinions and not those of Bethesda/Zenimax, etc.
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Quote: Original post by nagromo
Other parts besides the graphics card take current at 12V; if your hard drives, cd drives, graphics card, motherboard, and other 12V parts combined take too much current, you're in trouble.

Also, some PSU's provide two separate 12V 'rails': each rail can produce up to 20 amps, for a total of 40A. If both graphics card connectors are on the same rail, it's trying to draw 27A from a 20A rail, which causes problems, even though the other rail isn't being maxed. See if you have several PCI-E connectors that you can experiment with using different ones. (If two are connected together outside of the PSU, they're definitely on the same rail.)

Plus, with cheap power supplies, manufacturers often list the power as total amount they can take from the wall (instead of the amount they give to the computer): if the power supply uses 6A at 120V from the wall, it may be listed as a 720W supply, to make it look better. However, it may only deliver 25A at 12V, 20A at 5V, and 15A at 3.3V, for a total of 300W+100W+50W=450W actually delivered to the computer. Of that, only 300W can be used by 12V devices. So just because a PSU has a huge watt rating doesn't mean it'll give your graphics card enough current.

[edit] Looking at the chart above, your 12V is actually divided into 4 separate rails, which add up to 41A. So if you hook up the graphics card to the 13A and (16 or 18)A rails and don't use those ones for anything else, you should be good. Then you'll be left with the other two rails for your motherboard, hard drives, etc.


Interesting! There are two pair of cables. One which says PCI-E 12V3 and another which says PCI-E 12V4. There are of course other pairs as well, but they do not say PCI-E. I guess it does not matter?

I used both cables from the 12V3 pair previously.
Are you saying I should try one cable from two different pairs, since the GPU has two connectors? Actually, I am going to drive to my friends house and test that. Thank you!

Edit: I can not find the 12V1 and 12V2 as shown in this picture. Confusing. I will try the two PCI-E outputs and see if it works.

[Edited by - SymLinked on March 30, 2007 3:08:34 PM]
Thanks to everyone and especially so - nagromo. I wish I could buy you a beer or two.
What I did was to plug in one cable from the 16A AND the 8A (instead of 16A or 8A seperatly) and everything boots now.

I have to admit that I have not tried anything serious with the GPU yet, as I have to get new drivers. But at least it boots now which is a great step forward.

16A + 8A = 24A
24 * 12V = 288W

And I think Nvidia said you needed ~240W for full power. Not sure but it should be enough.

As for the fans starting up, then shutting down and starting up again - that seems to be a P965 thing which it does when the BIOS boots up for the first time, or when you have changed the CMOS.

Hopefully this thread might be helpful if someone runs into this in the future!
Quote: Are you saying I should try one cable from two different pairs, since the GPU has two connectors?


Correct! Feeding both connectors from the same rail won't help you any, because the card might as well pull all the power from a single rail at that point.

Btw: if your motherboard actually has PCI-Express connectors, then I suggest those should be populated (in addition to the card). I hadn't seen that before, but the system manufacturers come up with new tricks all the time.

For the power supply (or parts in general), check the cost of importing to Sweden. The dollar is low because of the US spendthrift habits, so it might be comparable to get it by the phone from newegg, paying air shipping and value added tax.
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Quote: Original post by hplus0603
Quote: Are you saying I should try one cable from two different pairs, since the GPU has two connectors?


Correct! Feeding both connectors from the same rail won't help you any, because the card might as well pull all the power from a single rail at that point.

Btw: if your motherboard actually has PCI-Express connectors, then I suggest those should be populated (in addition to the card). I hadn't seen that before, but the system manufacturers come up with new tricks all the time.


Sure, but I think it is not very logical to have two cables on each PCI-E rail, if they are insufficent to power todays cards anyway. I mean, there are two cables basically hanging in there, one from each rail, which is not a pretty sight.

Quote: Original post by hplus0603
For the power supply (or parts in general), check the cost of importing to Sweden. The dollar is low because of the US spendthrift habits, so it might be comparable to get it by the phone from newegg, paying air shipping and value added tax.


Been there, done that :) The shipping went for like $90 and I will never do that again. Thanks though!

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